|from my instagram: Caution: beginners only. All experienced surfers will fall asleep waiting.|
For the past 18 years, I've been watching my love, Mark, surf. I've always been content to be the Betty on the beach. I like watching. It's soothing, and looks much less dangerous! Yes the truth is, I'm a chicken. I used to be fearless as a kid growing up in Southern California. I let the waves toss me about with no problem. But after I had kids, I started to play life more cautiously and careful.
Well no more. Something has happened to me recently and it's made me realize that I'm just sitting around waiting for shit to happen. And when you do that, and your not steering, shit happens, but not necessarily the kind you want. So, taking the steer by the horn, the horse by the reigns, the sea with the board.... I'm giving it a try. Trying to overcome my fears. I'm starting small. So don't get any ideas that I'll be hitting the big waves. In fact, I have yet stand up! I've only been out one day. Several times, but just one day. Practicing paddling, sitting up and fear of shark bites.
I'm also exercising, because it takes a lot of arm and thigh muscle. I've been watching some fun video tutorials as well.
I can't wait to get out again, after my bruised ribs get less hurty. It's totally invigorating dude!